Practical Homesteading

Category: Food processing

  • How to Dehydrate Fruits, Vegetables, and Herbs From the Garden

    How to Dehydrate Fruits, Vegetables, and Herbs From the Garden

    This is the second post in my dehydration series. In the first post, I covered How to Dehydrate Food at Home: Air Drying, Oven Drying, and Dehydrators. In this post, I’m focusing on how to prepare fruits, vegetables, and herbs before drying them.

    Once you have chosen a drying method, the next step is preparing the food. Not every fruit, vegetable, or herb needs the same treatment before it goes into the dehydrator.

    Some foods can be washed, sliced, and placed right on the tray. Others benefit from a little extra prep, such as blanching or an acidic dip to help preserve color. Once you learn a few basic preparation methods, it becomes much easier to work through whatever your garden is producing.

    IIf you would like a printer-friendly reference to keep in the kitchen, my Garden Drying Guide includes expanded preparation, drying time, temperature, and storage charts for garden produce.

    Get the Guide Here for $5

    How to Prepare Fruit for Dehydrating

    Fruit is one of the simplest foods to dehydrate. Start with clean, good-quality fruit, and cut it into similarly sized pieces so it dries evenly.

    Many fruits can go directly onto dehydrator trays after washing and cutting. Arrange the pieces in a single layer without touching or overlapping.

    Most fruits dry well at about 135–140°F. Since dehydrators vary, use the closest setting on your machine and check food regularly as it gets closer to being finished.

    Berries

    Berries are one of my favorite foods to dehydrate because they are easy to prepare and so useful later. Make sure they are well dried after washing so you are not adding extra moisture to the dehydrator.

    Whole blueberries and cranberries have thicker skins, so they usually need to be cracked before drying. A brief dip in boiling water followed by a quick dip in cold water can split the skins and help moisture escape.

    Strawberries are also wonderful to dry. Hull them first, then slice them into even pieces so they dry more evenly. Dried strawberries are especially good in trail mix, oatmeal, muffins, and homemade granola.

    Cherries

    Cherries are one of my favorite dehydrated foods. They take a little more prep because they need to be pitted first, and they can take quite a while to dry. But the end result is worth it.

    Once pitted, place the cherries in a single layer on the tray. Dried cherries are wonderful for snacking, trail mix, oatmeal, baking, and homemade granola.

    Dehydrated cherries are a wonderful dried snack.

    Apples

    Apples are another favorite, especially during apple season. The easiest way I have found to prepare apples is with a Johnny Apple Peeler. It cores, peels, and slices apples all at once, which makes the job go much faster.

    After slicing, apples can be placed directly on the dehydrator trays. If you want to help prevent browning, dip the slices in a mixture of equal parts bottled lemon juice and water for a few minutes, then drain them well before drying. This step is optional, but it helps the apples keep a lighter color.

    Dried apples are great for snacking, baking, oatmeal, and homemade trail mix.

    I use a Johnny Apple Peeler to core, peel, and slice the apples in thin strips for the dehydrator.
    Stack the pieces neatly on a dehydrator tray. You can optionally dip them in a lemon juice/water mixture to prevent browning (I don’t).
    After 8-12 hours, you get these delicious chips that are perfect on their own or in trail mix!

    How to Prepare Vegetables for Dehydrating

    Vegetables can take a little more preparation because many benefit from blanching before drying. Blanching briefly heats the vegetables before they go into the dehydrator. It helps preserve color and quality, slows enzyme activity, and can help vegetables dry and rehydrate more evenly later.

    If you need a refresher on the basic blanching process, see my post, How to Blanch and Freeze Broccoli and Other Garden Vegetables.

    Vegetables that often benefit from blanching or cooking before drying include:

    • Green beans
    • Broccoli
    • Cauliflower
    • Carrots
    • Corn
    • Peas
    • Celery

    After blanching, plunge the vegetables into ice water to stop the cooking process. Then drain them well before arranging them in a thin, even layer on dehydrator trays. Too much moisture or overcrowding can slow down the drying process.

    Most vegetables dry well at about 135–140°F. Not every vegetable needs blanching, though. Onions, garlic, peppers, and herbs can usually be dried without that extra step.

    Peppers (including cayenne) do not need to be blanched before drying.
    While blanching is not necessary for dried celery, the process helps preserve the vibrant green color.

    Herbs Are One of the Easiest Foods to Dry

    Herbs are one of the easiest places to start if you are new to dehydrating. Basil, mint, parsley, oregano, thyme, sage, and rosemary dry much more quickly than most fruits and vegetables.

    Wash garden herbs gently if needed, then dry them very well before placing them on trays. Extra water on the leaves will make the drying process take longer.

    Herbs need a lower drying temperature than fruits and vegetables. I usually dry herbs between 95–115°F so they hold onto more of their flavor and aroma.

    Once the leaves are brittle and crumble easily between your fingers, they are ready to store. I like drying herbs because a little goes a long way, and it is such a satisfying way to preserve a garden harvest. It is also nice to have homegrown herbs ready to use during the winter.

    A Note About Drying Times

    Drying time can vary depending on the food, the thickness of the slices, the humidity in your home, and the type of dehydrator you use. Use any recommended drying time as a starting point, but always check the food itself before deciding it is finished.

    Thinner, evenly cut pieces usually dry more consistently. When in doubt, let the food cool before testing it, since warm food often feels softer than it will after it cools.

    Simple Dehydrating Preparation Guide

    Use this chart as a quick preparation guide. Drying temperatures and times can vary a little by dehydrator model, so always check your machine’s manual and the food itself as it dries.

    FoodHow to PrepareDrying TemperatureSpecial TipGood Uses
    BerriesWash, dry well, and place in a single layer135–140°FCrack thicker-skinned berries such as whole blueberries and cranberries before dryingSnacks, smoothies, baking, trail mix
    StrawberriesWash, hull, and slice into even pieces135–140°FKeep slices similar in thickness for more even dryingSnacks, oatmeal, muffins, granola
    CherriesWash, pit, and place in a single layer135–140°FExpect a longer drying timeSnacks, oatmeal, granola, baking
    ApplesWash, peel or leave peel on, core, and slice135–140°FDip in lemon water if you want to reduce browningSnacks, oatmeal, pies, trail mix
    Blanched vegetablesWash, cut evenly, blanch, cool, drain, and spread on trays135–140°FKeep layers thin for better airflowSoups, stews, casseroles
    Peppers and onionsWash, slice, and spread on trays135–140°FThese usually do not need blanchingSoups, chili, skillet meals
    HerbsWash if needed and dry thoroughly95–115°FDry until crisp and crumblySeasoning blends, cooking, tea

    Want a kitchen-friendly reference?

    My Garden Drying Guide includes printable preparation, temperature, drying time, storage, and rehydration charts for garden produce.

    Get the Guide Here for $5

    How to Tell When Food Is Dry

    Fruit should be dry enough that no moisture can be squeezed from it. It is often leathery and pliable rather than brittle. When folded in half, dried fruit should not feel moist or sticky inside.

    Vegetables are usually finished when they are brittle, crisp, or leathery. Herbs should crumble easily when rubbed between your fingers.

    Test food after it has cooled completely, since warm food often feels softer than it will once it reaches room temperature. Once food is dry, let it cool completely before packaging it in airtight containers.

    I usually label each container with the food and date so I can keep track of what needs to be used first. Store dried food in airtight containers in a cool, dark, dry place.

    Next in This Series

    In the next post, I’ll share one of the most useful ways to use a dehydrator: making simple meal bases that can be rehydrated later for camping, pantry meals, or busy days at home.

    What are your favorite fruits, vegetables, or herbs to dehydrate from the garden? Share your go-to foods and favorite ways to use them in the comments.

    If this post was helpful, please like and share it with a friend who enjoys gardening, dehydrating food, or preserving the harvest.

    Read More Here: How to Make Homemade Venison Jerky: Smoked vs. Dehydrated

  • How to Dehydrate Food at Home: Air Drying, Oven Drying, and Dehydrators

    How to Dehydrate Food at Home: Air Drying, Oven Drying, and Dehydrators

    I love the many different ways food can be preserved at home and enjoyed throughout the year. In my last three posts, I covered different methods of freezing garden produce. Today, I’m starting a new preservation series with one of the oldest methods: dehydration.

    Dehydration removes most of the moisture from food, which changes its texture and helps it keep longer when it is dried and stored properly. Some foods become chewy, some become crisp, and some can later be rehydrated and added to soups, casseroles, or other meals.

    In this dehydration series, I’ll cover three simple topics:

    Want a kitchen-friendly reference?
    My Garden Drying Guide includes printable preparation, temperature, drying time, storage, and rehydration charts for garden produce.

    Get the printable guide here for $5

    There are several ways to dry food at home. Some are simple and inexpensive, while others take a little more equipment. The important things are gentle heat, moving air, and enough time for moisture to leave the food before it has a chance to spoil or mold.

    Drying Methods at a Glance

    Before we get into each method, here is a quick look at the different ways you can dry food at home.

    Drying MethodBest ForWhat You NeedBenefitsThings to Keep in Mind
    Air dryingHerbs, stale bread for croutons or bread crumbsCookie sheet, drying rack, or hanging bundles; a dry indoor space with airflowSimple, inexpensive, and requires no special equipmentBest for herbs and dry bread rather than fresh produce; protect food from dust and moisture; do not overcrowd pans
    Sun dryingFruit in hot, dry climatesDrying racks or screens, insect protection, and consistent sunshineTraditional method with no electricity requiredDepends on hot, dry weather; bring food in at night; protect it from insects and animals; not practical in every climate
    Oven dryingSmall batches, tomato paste, and foods you want to dry without a dehydratorLow-temperature oven, racks or trays, and careful monitoringUses equipment many people already ownWorks best if the oven can hold about 140–150°F; moisture needs a way to escape; can use more energy and requires close attention
    Dedicated dehydratorRegular dehydrating, garden harvests, larger batches, and more consistent resultsElectric dehydrator and traysConsistent airflow and temperature control; useful for larger batchesCosts more upfront; round models may need tray rotation, while rectangular models often provide more even airflow

    Air Drying Food at Home

    The most basic drying method is air drying. This works especially well for herbs such as basil, mint, and parsley. You can spread clean, dry leaves in a thin layer or hang small bundles in a dry place with good airflow until they are fully dry.

    I have also used this method very effectively with old stale bread. I cut the bread into cubes for croutons or crumble it for homemade bread crumbs, then spread it on a cookie sheet in a dry spot out of the way and stir it from time to time. It is a simple way to use bread that might otherwise go to waste.

    The key with air drying is not to overcrowd the pan or pile the food too densely. Food needs plenty of room for air to move around it. Stir small pieces occasionally, and make sure everything is completely dry before putting it away.

    Dehydrating old bread for crutons or bread crumbs couldn’t be easier

    Sun Drying Food

    Sun drying is another traditional preservation method, although it is not one I have used enough to give much personal advice about it. Between my roaming chickens and other curious homestead critters, I am afraid my food would be gone before I got the chance to enjoy it myself.

    Sun drying is similar to air drying, but it depends on consistently hot, dry, sunny weather. It is most practical in climates with very low humidity, which is also not here in southeastern Wisconsin. In more humid areas, food may mold before it has a chance to dry thoroughly, so an oven or dehydrator is usually a more dependable choice.

    If you do try sun drying, protect food from insects and animals, bring it in at night, and watch the weather closely. Because sun drying depends so heavily on the weather, I see it as more of a traditional option than an everyday preservation method for my own kitchen.

    How to Use an Oven as a Dehydrator

    Before I owned a dedicated dehydrator, I used my oven often. It works, although it does take a little extra attention.

    Spread food in a single layer on oven-safe drying racks or trays. If your oven can be set as low as 140–150°F, that is ideal for many fruits and vegetables. Prop the oven door open slightly so moisture can escape, and check the food regularly.

    I still use the oven method when I make tomato paste because it works so well. Creating tomato paste from juiced tomatoes takes time, but the slow oven heat helps cook down and dry the tomatoes into something thick, rich, and caramelized.

    Oven drying can be less efficient than using a dedicated dehydrator, and not every oven holds a low temperature evenly. Check food regularly, especially toward the end, so it does not scorch or become overly brittle. Always follow your oven manufacturer’s guidance, and do not leave a propped-open oven unattended.

    If your oven’s lowest setting is 170°F, it can still be useful for certain projects. Just check food often, since the higher heat can dry the outside more quickly than the inside.

    Why I Prefer a Dedicated Dehydrator

    My favorite method is using a dedicated dehydrator. These machines are made to move heated air steadily over the food, which helps it dry more evenly. They also make it much easier to control the temperature, which is helpful when you are drying different kinds of food.

    There are two common styles of dehydrators. Round or stacked-tray dehydrators usually move air vertically through the unit. Rectangular dehydrators generally move heated air from the back across the trays.

    I have used both kinds, and I personally prefer rectangular dehydrators. For me, the results seem more even, and I find the trays easier to load. I like being able to spread food out in a single layer without trying to fit everything around a center opening. The biggest downside is that rectangular dehydrators are usually more expensive.

    Here’s the rectangular dehydrator that I use.

    Horizontal-airflow dehydrators can be especially helpful when you are drying different foods at once because the air moves evenly across the trays. Vertical-flow models can work well too, but they may require more tray rotation for even drying.

    Basic Tips for Dehydrating Food

    No matter which drying method you use, a few habits make a big difference:

    • Start with fresh, good-quality food. Drying will not improve food that is already bruised, moldy, or beginning to spoil.
    • Wash and prepare food before drying.
    • Cut pieces into similar sizes so they dry evenly.
    • Arrange food in a single layer without overlapping.
    • Stir small pieces or rotate trays when needed.
    • Let dried food cool before testing it or packaging it.
    • If you are unsure whether something is dry enough, give it a little more time. It is better to dry food thoroughly than to store it with hidden moisture.
    • Remember that warm food can feel softer than it will after cooling.

    Fruits should usually be leathery or pliable, with no moisture squeezing out when pressed. Vegetables are often dry when they are crisp, brittle, or leathery. Herbs should crumble easily between your fingers.

    Storing Dried Food

    Let dried food cool completely before putting it into airtight jars, containers, or bags. Label each container with the food and date, then store it in a cool, dark, dry place.

    If you notice moisture collecting inside a container after a day or two, return the food to the dehydrator before storing it again. I usually label each container with the food and date so I can keep track of what needs to be used first.

    Taking the time to cool, label, and store dried food properly helps protect your hard work and keeps it ready to use later.

    Properly dehydrated food typically keeps for 6 months to 1 year at peak quality when stored in a cool, dark, and dry place. While safe to eat for longer if kept completely dry, quality, flavor, and nutrients begin to fade after 12 months

    Dehydrated jalopeno peppers make a wonderful (if potent) spice addition and keep a long time in a dry dark space.

    Next in This Series

    In the next post, I’ll cover how to prepare different foods for dehydration, including fruit, vegetables, herbs, and a few of my favorite garden foods.

    Have you ever dehydrated food at home? I’d love to hear which method you use most often—an oven, a dehydrator, or something simpler like air drying herbs.

    If this post was helpful, please like and share it with a friend who enjoys gardening, preserving food, or stocking a pantry for later.

    Read More Here: Zone 4B Vegetable Garden Ideas: What We Planted in 2026

  • How to Cook Dry Beans in a Pressure Cooker

    How to Cook Dry Beans in a Pressure Cooker

    This is a follow-up to my rice post because rice and beans are one of those classic combinations that show up in so many delicious meals. From Cuban black beans to Mexican-style pinto beans, there are countless ways to turn a simple pot of beans and rice into a filling meal.

    When I was a kid, I did not know about the wonders of beans. The most exposure I had was to the cheap beef-and-bean frozen burritos my mom would sometimes get. They were delicious, but that was about as far as it went.

    I learned more when I was in college. I was broke, and I was reading listicles about how to save money on food. Eating more beans was always near the top of the list, and there was a good reason why.

    It turns out there are many different kinds of beans, and each one has a distinctly different flavor. My whole world opened up that day.

    I started with canned beans, but quickly moved on to dried beans. Back then, I cooked them in a pot on the stove. But since getting my Crock-Pot Express pressure cooker, I have started making them that way instead. I am not paid to advertise it, and I do not even think it is still being made, but it has worked well for my kitchen.

    Today, I am going to show you how I use my pressure cooker to cook dry beans. I use the Crock-Pot Express as an example, but these tips should work for many electric pressure cookers. I will also share some troubleshooting tips for the times they do not turn out perfectly.

    Why Cook Dry Beans From Scratch?

    Beans are one of my favorite ways to make meals more filling without spending much more money. They are inexpensive, shelf-stable, and soak up the flavor of whatever you cook them with.

    A ham bone that might otherwise get thrown away can turn into a rich, smoky pot of beans. Add some onion, garlic, bay leaves, or clean vegetable trimmings, such as onion ends, celery leaves, or carrot tops, and you have the beginning of another meal.

    Beans are also helpful when you want to stretch meat. Add black beans to taco meat, kidney beans to chili, or navy beans to soup, and you can make a smaller amount of meat feed more people. With the price of meat these days, that can make a noticeable difference in the grocery budget.

    They are a good source of protein, fiber, and potassium, while also being naturally low in fat. A half-cup serving of cooked beans provides roughly 7 grams of fiber, depending on the variety. Beans and rice complement each other nutritionally, and together they make a filling, satisfying meal.

    Choosing the Right Bean

    Choose the type of bean you want to make. The basic cooking process is similar, but different beans work better in different meals.

    BeanGood For
    Kidney beansChili, soups, salads
    Great Northern beansBaked beans, ham and bean soup, creamy bean dishes
    Navy beansBaked beans, soups, and bean side dishes
    Black beansCuban-style black bean soup, tacos, burrito bowls, rice dishes
    Pinto beansTacos, refried beans, burritos, chili
    Chickpeas or garbanzo beansHummus, salads, soups, roasted chickpeas

    How Much Do Dry Beans Make?

    One cup of dry beans usually makes about 2 to 3 cups of cooked beans. That is enough for about four to six half-cup side-dish servings, depending on the bean and what else you are serving.

    If beans are the main part of the meal, plan on larger portions. If you are using beans to stretch a meat-based meal, one cup of dry beans can go a long way.

    I recently cooked 1½ cups of dry beans, then added them to 1½ pounds of taco meat. It nearly doubled the taco filling, which is nothing to complain about when you have a taco-loving family like mine.

    Soaking Dry Beans

    The night before you want to cook your beans, choose the type of bean you would like to make. Look through the dry beans and remove any stray rocks, broken beans, or debris.

    Place the beans in a large bowl or container and cover them generously with cold water. Beans expand while soaking, so make sure there are several inches of water above them.

    I like to add about 1 tablespoon of salt to 3 quarts of soaking water, but plain water works well too if you prefer to keep things simple.

    Cover the container and let the beans soak in the refrigerator overnight. An overnight soak helps the beans cook more evenly and makes the next day’s cooking much easier.

    If you are in a pinch, you can soak beans for only a few hours. They may need a little extra cooking time, so check them after the first pressure-cooking cycle and add more time if they are still too firm.

    Soaking beans really helps speed up the cooking process.

    How to Cook Soaked Dry Beans in a Pressure Cooker

    Ingredients

    • 1 cup dry beans, picked over and soaked overnight
    • Fresh water
    • 1 teaspoon salt per cup of dry beans
    • 1–2 bay leaves, optional
    • Clean vegetable trimmings, such as onion ends, celery leaves, or carrot tops, optional
    • Ham bone or ham hock, optional

    Instructions

    1. Pick through the beans and remove any damaged beans, debris, or small stones.
    2. Rinse the beans, cover them generously with cold water, and soak them in the refrigerator overnight.
    3. Drain and rinse the soaked beans.
    4. Add the beans to the pressure cooker.
    5. Cover the beans with fresh water, leaving at least 2 inches of water above them. If you are adding a ham bone, make sure it fits comfortably below the maximum-fill line.
    6. Add the salt, bay leaves, clean vegetable trimmings, onion, garlic, herbs, or ham bone if using.
    7. Do not fill the pressure cooker more than halfway full. Beans expand and can foam while cooking, so they need plenty of room in the pot.
    8. Lock the lid, set the steam-release valve to the sealed position, and select the bean function or high pressure.
    9. On my Crock-Pot Express, I start soaked beans on the bean setting, which runs at high pressure for about 20 minutes.
    10. When the cooking cycle is complete, let the pressure release naturally. On my cooker, this usually takes around 20 to 30 minutes.
    11. Once the pressure indicator has dropped and the lid opens easily, carefully remove the lid.
    12. Remove bay leaves, vegetable trimmings, and bones with tongs. If you used a ham bone, pull off the meat, chop it if needed, and return it to the pot.
    13. Taste the beans. If they are still too firm, return them to high pressure for another 5 to 10 minutes, then allow the pressure to release naturally again.
    Drain the beans
    I use the “Bean/Chili” setting on my pressure cooker.
    Tender, flavorful cooked beans are wonderful to add to many meals.

    When to Add Tomatoes, Vinegar, or Other Acidic Ingredients

    I usually wait to add tomatoes, vinegar, molasses, or other acidic ingredients until the beans are tender. Acidic ingredients can slow down the softening process, especially with older beans.

    This is especially helpful to remember when you are making chili, baked beans, tomato-based soups, or any recipe that includes vinegar or molasses. Cook the beans until tender first, then add those ingredients and simmer everything together for flavor.

    What to Do With Cooked Beans

    Once the beans are tender, you have a simple base for all kinds of meals.

    Use kidney beans in chili, black beans to stretch ground beef tacos or make Cuban-style black bean soup, pinto beans for refried beans and rice dishes, navy beans in baked beans, or chickpeas in hummus.

    Of course, one of my favorite ways to use a pot of cooked beans is alongside a simple bowl of rice. Add a little cooking liquid, chopped onion, hot sauce, salsa, or whatever seasoning fits the meal, and you have an inexpensive, filling dinner.

    Add cooked beans to taco meat to stretch your food dollar.

    How Long Do Cooked Beans Last?

    If I make a large batch, I keep some in the refrigerator for the week and freeze the rest in meal-size portions for later. Store refrigerated beans in an airtight container and use them within 3 to 4 days.

    For longer storage, freeze beans in meal-size portions with a little cooking liquid so they do not dry out. Properly stored cooked beans can keep in the freezer for up to 6 months. When you are ready to use them, thaw them in the refrigerator, then add them to soups, chili, tacos, casseroles, or rice dishes just as you would canned or freshly cooked beans.

    Dry Bean Troubleshooting Guide

    ProblemLikely CauseWhat to Try Next Time
    Beans are still firm after cookingBeans were not soaked long enough, are older, or need more cooking timeReturn them to high pressure for another 5 to 10 minutes
    Beans are mushyBeans cooked too long or were very soft before pressure cookingReduce cooking time slightly next time
    Beans are blandNot enough seasoning or flavorful ingredientsAdd salt, onion, garlic, bay leaves, broth, herbs, or a ham bone
    Beans are too saltyToo much salt, bouillon, ham, or salty brothUse less salt or choose low-sodium broth next time
    Beans are dry after cookingNot enough cooking liquidAdd more water or broth before storing or serving
    Beans stick to the bottomNot enough liquid or food was left on warm too longUse enough water, and remove or store beans once they are finished

    Cooking dry beans from scratch is one of those simple kitchen skills that saves money, makes meals more filling, and gives you a lot of options throughout the week.

    Do you cook dry beans from scratch? What is your favorite kind of bean to keep in the pantry?

    If this guide was helpful, please like and share it with a friend who enjoys cooking from scratch, saving money on groceries, or making simple pantry meals.

    Subscribe for weekly homesteading tips:

    Read Next: Buying Meat from a Farmer: A Complete Guide to Bulk Meat, Freezers, and Butchers

  • How to Freeze Cooked Garden Vegetables Like Beets, Corn, and Winter Squash

    How to Freeze Cooked Garden Vegetables Like Beets, Corn, and Winter Squash

    This post is the last in my garden freezing series, where I’m sharing three simple ways to preserve the harvest:

    • easy no-blanch freezer foods,
    • blanch-and-freeze vegetables, and
    • cooked vegetables for the freezer.

    In this post, I’m covering the final step — freezing cooked garden vegetables.

    Want all three freezer methods in one printable guide?

    Grab it here for $5.

    Why Freeze Cooked Vegetables?

    Some garden vegetables freeze best after they’ve been fully cooked first. It adds a little extra prep, but for certain vegetables it helps preserve texture and makes them easier to use later.

    How to Freeze Beets

    Beets are one of the best examples. I cook them until tender, let them cool, then peel and slice or cube them before freezing. Sometimes I freeze them plain, and other times I season them lightly depending on how I think I’ll use them later. Frozen cooked beets are great for salads, side dishes, or reheating with a little butter and salt.

    How to Freeze Corn

    Corn is another vegetable that freezes beautifully after cooking. First I husk the corn.

    Then I cook the corn on the cob, let it cool, then cut the kernels off the cob before freezing them in portion-sized bags. I squeeze out the air, seal the bags, and place them in the freezer. I usually don’t freeze whole cobs, mostly because the kernels take up less space and are easier to use later in soups, casseroles, chowders, skillet meals, and homemade dinner bowls.

    How to Freeze Winter Squash

    Winter squash also works well with this method, especially varieties like acorn squash, pumpkin, and spaghetti squash. I like to cook them until tender, let them cool, and then freeze the flesh in portions that are easy to thaw later. The texture softens a bit after freezing, but these squash varieties are still wonderful for purees, soups, casseroles, baked dishes, and other recipes where the squash will be mixed in or mashed.

    Best Vegetables to Freeze Cooked

    This method also works well for other vegetables that are usually cooked before serving or that don’t hold up quite as well when frozen raw. The key is to think ahead about how you’ll want to use them later. If the goal is to save time during the winter, freezing them after cooking can be a great option and only adds a little more work when you’re already cooking a larger batch.

    Like the other freezer methods, this one helps us make the most of summer’s harvest. Instead of watching good food go to waste, I can tuck it away for a colder day when a quick homemade meal is exactly what we need.

    Cooking and Freezing Guide

    If you want a quick reference, here’s a simple guide for freezing cooked vegetables after they’ve been prepared and cooled.

    VegetableHow to CookHow Long It Lasts in the FreezerHow to Use After Thawing
    BeetsBoil or roast until tender, then peel and slice or cube8–12 monthsSalads, side dishes, reheating with butter, soups
    CornCook on the cob, then cut kernels off after cooling8–12 monthsSoups, casseroles, chowders, skillet meals, homemade dinner bowls
    Acorn squashBake or roast until tender, then scoop out the flesh8–12 monthsPurees, soups, casseroles, baked dishes
    PumpkinRoast or steam until tender, then puree or mash8–12 monthsPies, muffins, breads, soups, sauces
    Spaghetti squashBake or roast until tender, then scrape out the strands6–8 monthsCasseroles, skillet dishes, vegetable sides, mixed vegetable bowls

    I usually label each bag with the date so I know what to use first. I’ll cover canning methods in future posts.

    Do you freeze any vegetables after cooking them first? I’d love to hear what works best for you in the comments.

    If this post was helpful, please like and share it with a friend who loves preserving garden produce.

    Read More Here: Biggest Garden Yet: Lessons, Laughs, and Pig-Approved Produce

  • How to Blanch and Freeze Broccoli and Other Garden Vegetables

    How to Blanch and Freeze Broccoli and Other Garden Vegetables

    This post is the second in my garden freezing series, where I’m sharing three simple ways to preserve the harvest:

    In this post, I’m covering the next step — the simple process of blanching and freezing garden produce.

    Want all three freezer methods in one printable guide?

    Get it here for $5.

    Why I Freeze Broccoli

    I love harvesting vegetables from the garden and putting them up for later. There’s something satisfying about knowing summer’s work will carry us through the colder months. One of my favorite ways to preserve vegetables is by blanching and freezing them, and broccoli is one of the easiest places to start.

    I usually plant far more broccoli than our family can eat during the summer, which makes it a perfect candidate for the freezer. The same method also works well for other garden vegetables like green beans, cauliflower, and carrots, depending on the vegetable and how it holds up to blanching.

    How to Blanch Broccoli

    I start by harvesting broccoli heads when they are ready, then cut them into bite-size pieces with some stem attached and soak them in cold water. While the broccoli is soaking, I bring a large kettle of water to a boil.

    Select good heads of broccoli that have not flowered and are full

    Once the water is boiling, I add the broccoli and blanch it for 2.5 minutes. Then I remove it immediately and plunge it into icy water to stop the cooking process. This helps preserve the broccoli’s color, flavor, and texture for long-term storage by slowing the enzymes that can cause spoilage and off-flavors.

    Before blanching
    After blanching

    How to Freeze Broccoli

    After the broccoli has cooled completely, I spread it out on a cookie sheet and place it in the freezer overnight. This step keeps the pieces from freezing into one big clump, so I can easily grab just what I need later. Once frozen, I transfer the broccoli into quart- or gallon-size freezer bags and store it in the freezer until I’m ready to use it.

    I spread the broccoli onto a cookie sheet and place it in the freezer overnight so I can pull out as much as I need.
    Don’t forget to properly label the bags! Here, I kept it simple: food, and month/year of harvest.

    Frozen broccoli is one of my favorite vegetables to pull out in the middle of winter. I use it in dressed-up ramen, soups, stir-fries, and as a simple side dish with dinner. It never seems to last until the next harvest season. Even with my best efforts, we usually run out by February, right around the time I’m planting broccoli again from seed.

    Other Vegetables to Blanch and Freeze

    The same basic blanch-and-freeze method works well for other vegetables from the garden too. Green beans are a freezer favorite, and I also like to preserve cauliflower and carrots when we have extra. If you grow a garden, freezing vegetables this way is one of the easiest ways to avoid waste and enjoy your harvest later in the year.

    Blanching Guide for Garden Vegetables

    If you like having a quick reference, here’s a simple blanching guide for a few common garden vegetables, along with the kinds of dishes they work best in after freezing.

    VegetableBlanch TimeFreezer LifeBest For
    Broccoli2.5 minutes8–12 monthsRoasting, soups, stir-fries, side dishes
    Green beans3 minutes8–12 monthsSide dishes, casseroles, sautés
    Cauliflower3 minutes8–12 monthsRoasting, soups, mash, casseroles
    Carrots2–3 minutes10–12 monthsSoups, stews, roasting, glazing
    Brussels sprouts3–5 minutes8–12 monthsRoasting, skillet dishes, side dishes

    Blanch times can vary a little depending on the size and freshness of the vegetable, so use this as a starting point. When I freeze vegetables, I usually label the bag with the date so I can keep track of what needs to be used first.

    More Garden Freezer Ideas

    In my next post, I’ll cover how to freeze garden vegetables that you fully cook first, such as sweet corn, beets, and squash.

    Do you preserve vegetables from your garden? What are your favorites to freeze? Share your favorites in the comments.

    If this post was helpful, please like and share it with a friend who loves preserving garden produce.

    Read More Here: Zone 4B July Garden Tour: Our 2026 Garden Updates

  • How to Freeze Peppers, Tomatoes, Zucchini, and Berries for Later

    How to Freeze Peppers, Tomatoes, Zucchini, and Berries for Later

    This post is part of my garden freezing series, where I’m sharing three simple ways to preserve the harvest:

    In this post, I’m covering the easy stuff — the garden produce you can prep and freeze without blanching.

    Want all three freezer methods in one printable guide?

    Get the Garden Freezer Guide here for $5.

    I love putting up garden produce for later in the year, especially when the freezer starts to feel like a quiet little backup pantry. Some vegetables need to be blanched before freezing, but a few summer favorites are even easier: just prep them, freeze them, and stash them away for winter.

    Peppers

    Peppers are one of the easiest things to freeze. I wash them, remove the stems and seeds, and slice or chop them depending on how I plan to use them later. Sometimes I leave them whole for stuffed peppers. Then I spread the pieces on a tray or place them directly into freezer bags. Frozen peppers are great for soups, omelets, stir-fries, casseroles, and stuffed peppers.

    Tomatoes

    Tomatoes are another simple freezer food. I usually core them, then place them whole into a gallon freezer bag. This is especially helpful in August when I’m overwhelmed with produce and don’t have time to process everything right away. In winter, when I have more time, I take them out of the freezer. Once they thaw, the skins slip off easily, which makes them especially handy for sauces, soups, and stews.

    If I have a bumper crop, freezing tomatoes is one of the fastest ways to deal with them before they start to soften on the counter.

    Zucchini

    Zucchini is a little more flexible. I usually shred it before freezing, since that works well for muffins, breads, and casseroles. If I want to use it in soups or skillet dishes, I may slice it instead. Zucchini has a high water content, so it won’t always hold its texture perfectly after thawing, but it is still worth freezing when the garden is overflowing. I’ve found that it helps to prep the veggie the way I expect to use it later, because that makes it much more likely I’ll actually use it.

    Berries

    Berries are one of my favorite easy freezer foods. After washing and drying them well, I spread them on a tray and freeze them before bagging. This keeps them from clumping together so I can grab just what I need for smoothies, muffins, pancakes, or cobblers. Frozen berries are one of those things that make winter breakfasts feel a little brighter.

    If you like having a quick reference, here’s a simple guide for these easy freezer foods:

    FoodGeneral MethodHow Long It Keeps in the FreezerBest Use After Thawing
    PeppersWash, remove stems and seeds, slice or chop, then freeze on a tray or in bags8–12 monthsSoups, omelets, stir-fries, casseroles, stuffed peppers
    TomatoesCore and freeze whole in freezer bags6–12 monthsSauces, soups, stews
    ZucchiniShred or slice, then freeze in portions8–12 monthsMuffins, breads, casseroles, soups
    BerriesWash, dry well, tray-freeze, then bag8–12 monthsSmoothies, muffins, pancakes, cobblers

    The nice thing about these foods is that they don’t require a lot of extra steps. If you’re short on time, they’re a great way to preserve a harvest quickly and keep food from going to waste.

    What easy freezer foods do you like to put away from the garden? Share your favorites in the comments.

    If this post was helpful, please like and share it with a friend who loves preserving garden produce.

    Read More Here: Zone 4B Vegetable Garden Ideas: What We Planted in 2026

  • Zone 4B July Garden Tour: Our 2026 Garden Updates

    Zone 4B July Garden Tour: Our 2026 Garden Updates

    Somehow, it’s already early July. How is your garden doing?

    We’re in Zone 4B, and in late May I shared what we planted in our garden this year. In this post, I’m expanding on that first update and sharing how things are going now. How much work have we done so far? What veggies have we harvested already (spoiler: not too many yet, but that’s changing fast!)?

    It’s been a fairly wet season so far (with plenty of tornado warnings), which has meant we haven’t had to start watering yet. I expect that to change as July continues and we slide into our usual hotter, drier stretch.

    Think of this as a walk-through of our garden rows, plus a few notes on what’s working, what isn’t, and what we’ve noticed already this year.

    Strawberries: The Semi-Permanent Front Row

    The first two rows of our garden are dedicated to strawberries. This is a semi-permanent location for them. Back in April, we transplanted the plants, and since then we’ve pinched off the blossoms and weeded the rows.

    We’ve been pinching blossoms to allow the plants to focus more on strong root and leaf growth, but have recently stopped. We’ve harvested a grand total of two berries so far (and they’re delicious!). Besides the berries, the plants themselves have sent off large shoots that re‑root themselves. We’ve been working to direct those so they don’t take over the middle of the row.

    Root Vegetables: Fresh Salads Now, Storage Roots Later

    The next rows are dedicated to root vegetables and salad greens. These rows have shown a rapid return, with us harvesting many salads’ worth of lettuce and spinach (my salad spinner is working overtime!), and we’ve finished harvesting radishes.

    Other veggie updates:

    • Parsnips: They didn’t come up well, so we replanted a couple of weeks ago.
    • Carrots: They’re coming up great, and we hope to harvest our first fresh carrots (nature’s candy) within the next couple of weeks. My son cannot wait.
    • Beets: We hope to harvest these soon too.

    Red and Yellow Onions

    After the root bed come two full rows of onions—both red and yellow.

    Our transplanted yellow onions have been growing vigorously; they are now about the size of baseballs. Our red onions are a little further behind, but are still quite healthy.

    We’ve started harvesting some of the larger yellow onions. Fresh onions from the garden are divine!

    Peas: Kid-Favorite Garden Candy

    Our peas are starting to blossom, which means any week now they’ll begin producing. The kids think of them as garden candy, and eat them straight from the vine.

    Cucumbers in the Middle (On Purpose) + Tomatoes and Peppers

    The cucumbers are coming up well and are starting to blossom. We’ll start getting cucumbers in just a couple of weeks. We planted them in the middle of the garden on purpose, where they’re easy to water and can climb on a trellis without taking over the edges.

    I did see my first cucumber beetles this week. Right now I’m just keeping a close eye on them; if anyone has favorite ways to manage cucumber beetles organically, I’d love to hear your advice.

    We’ve actually started harvesting some peppers already—delicious!

    We have tiny Roma tomatoes on the vine that are steadily getting bigger, and some Early Girls. I expect to get a couple of Early Girls in a couple of weeks, then the Romas and Mortgage Lifters by the end of July into early August.

    Cruciferous Row: Cauliflower, Kale, Broccoli, and Brussels Sprouts

    I’ve harvested my first kale and made my first batch of Zuppa Toscana. It was lovely—though maybe not the best meal to eat on a 90‑degree day, haha.

    Cauliflower, broccoli, and Brussels sprouts haven’t produced yet. I expect the broccoli to start producing within the next couple of weeks. The Brussels sprouts will likely be ready in about 2–3 months (they have a long growing period).

    Cabbage, Bok Choy, and Kohlrabi

    The next row is a mix of:

    • Cabbage: Destined for sauerkraut, boiled cabbage, and coleslaw. Not ready yet, but I expect smaller heads to be ready in about a month.
    • Bok choy: We harvested our first head, and it was delicious in our beef stir fry.
    • Kohlrabi: The “heads” are starting to form (they look like a little bulb with leafy hair coming out).

    Summer Squash, Rutabagas, and a Few Flowers

    In the back corner of the garden, we planted summer squash—three hills of it.

    In my unsolicited opinion, three hills is about two hills too many. If you’ve ever been buried in zucchini or summer squash, you know exactly what I mean. We also have several volunteer squash plants coming up in random spots throughout the garden. If a volunteer squash plant pops up in a really inconvenient spot (where it will interfere with my favorite veggies), I pull it out.

    The rest of that row holds garlic and rutabagas:

    • We plan to harvest the four bulbs of garlic within the next couple of weeks.
    • The interplanted rutabagas will begin to be harvested in about a week or two.

    We’ve also tucked marigolds into the garden, which I love both for their pest‑control benefits and because they’re simply beautiful. On top of that, we have a lot of volunteer sunflowers coming up throughout the garden—they add a bit of cheer and should make the bees happy later in the season.

    Sweet Corn and Cantaloupe at the Front

    The front of the garden holds our sweet corn patch. It’s doing well so far. They always say corn is doing well if it’s “knee high by the Fourth of July,” and this year it’s about waist high (I’m writing this on the Fourth). I suspect we will be battling the raccoons and possums for the crop later in the season, and I hope we win at least some this time!

    The cantaloupe patch is on the other side. So far, so good—the plants are still small, but they grow fast this time of year. I expect to harvest our first cantaloupes in about a month.

    How Much Weeding We’ve Done (So Far)

    We weed the garden the most at the beginning of the garden season. My dad has always said, “You win or lose the battle with weeds in the month of June,” and I wholeheartedly agree.

    If you catch them early and don’t let them go to seed, there are fewer by the end of the year (although you still have to do maintenance weeding after that). In June, my husband and I have spent an average of 3–4 hours per week on weeding. As the weather gets drier and the plants start to shade out more of the garden, I expect that time to be drastically reduced, down to about an hour per week.

    I’ll shift that “extra” time to harvesting and preservation as the season continues. Stay tuned for all the ways I like to preserve garden‑fresh veggies!

    Potatoes, Pumpkins, and Future Plans

    Beyond the main garden rows, we have two additional patches:

    • The potato patch has been hilled, and we’re starting to find the dastardly potato bugs (both the babies and the adults). For now we’re picking them off by hand and doing our best to stay ahead of them.
    • Behind our barn, we have established a pumpkin patch, and I’m already picturing fall—whether that means jack‑o’‑lanterns, pies, or both.

    So far, I don’t have big “lessons learned” to share this season. I’m sure they’re coming as the summer unfolds, but right now we’re mostly observing, adjusting as needed, and enjoying the early harvests.

    That’s where things stand in our Zone 4B garden this early July.

    Garden produce starting to come in?

    My free Grow What You’ll Use planner helps you decide what to eat fresh, freeze, dehydrate, store, share, or use up this week—before the harvest gets ahead of you.

    Send Me the Free Planner

    If you’re gardening in a similar climate, I’d love to hear: what’s thriving for you right now, what pests you’re seeing, and what’s been your biggest surprise so far this season?

    If this garden tour was helpful or encouraging, would you share it with another gardener—especially someone in a colder zone? Your shares and comments help these updates reach more folks who are growing right alongside us.

    Read Next: Biggest Garden Yet: Laughs, Lessons, and Pig-Approved Produce

  • From Driveway Weeds to Tea: How to Forage Chamomile at Home

    From Driveway Weeds to Tea: How to Forage Chamomile at Home

    I always knew about chamomile tea. I’d heard people talk about winding down with a mug before bed and mention the health benefits—things like calming the nervous system, easing digestion, and supporting better sleep.

    What I didn’t know was that you could forage your own chamomile blossoms…until I watched my husband’s grandmother do it.

    She walked right out into the driveway and started picking what I had always thought were just little white-and-yellow weeds. It was like a lightbulb went off in my head. These “weeds” I’d seen growing all over the driveway actually produce a delicious tea? Mind officially blown.

    If you’re not familiar with foraging your own chamomile, this is a simple guide to help you:

    • Recognize chamomile in the wild
    • Harvest it (bonus points if you involve kids)
    • Dry and store it
    • Brew your own homemade chamomile tea whenever you want—without the grocery store bill

    As always, I’m sharing our experience for informational purposes; it’s not medical advice.

    Where Chamomile Likes to Grow

    One of the most surprising things about chamomile is where it chooses to grow. It doesn’t always show up in neat garden rows or carefully tended herb beds.

    You’ll often find it in:

    • Gravel driveways and along the edges of paths
    • Road ditches and disturbed soil
    • Around barnyards, fence lines, and well-traveled areas
    • Sometimes in garden beds if it’s self-seeded or naturalized

    It seems to have a soft spot for tough, compacted, “nobody wants to grow here” spots—which is part of its charm. Once you know what you’re looking for, you may start seeing it everywhere.

    Chamomile typically blooms through much of the warmer season, often late spring into summer depending on your climate. That’s the time of year you’ll want to start scanning those driveways and ditches for blossoms.

    If you’re foraging near roads, be mindful of:

    • Spraying (avoid areas that may have been treated with herbicides)
    • Pet or livestock traffic (look for cleaner patches)
    • Traffic dust and grime (driveways and paths on your own property are usually a safer bet)

    What Chamomile Looks Like (and Smells Like)

    Before you start picking anything, it’s important to be confident in what you’re harvesting.

    Chamomile generally has:

    • Small daisy-like flowers
      • White petals
      • Yellow, dome-shaped center
    • Fine, feathery leaves
      • Light, airy, almost carrot-top-like foliage
    • A sweet, apple-like scent when you crush the flower heads between your fingers

    A few simple tips:

    • Look for patches of low-growing plants with lots of little white-and-yellow flowers rather than single, tall stems here and there.
    • Rub a flower gently between your fingers and smell it. That sweet, apple-y scent is a good sign you’re in the right place.

    There are a few different chamomile and chamomile-lookalike species out there, and some “daisy” weeds can be mistaken for chamomile at first glance. If you’re unsure, start in a spot where you know chamomile has already been identified correctly (a family member’s patch, a friend’s garden, or your own yard from purchased seed), and cross-check with a field guide or trusted resource before branching out into roadside foraging.

    How to Harvest Chamomile Blossoms

    When you’re ready to harvest, focus on the flower heads rather than the stems and leaves.

    Basic harvesting steps:

    • Choose a dry day.
      Harvest when the flowers are dry (late morning or afternoon is usually best, after the dew has evaporated).
    • Look for open flowers.
      Pick blossoms that are fully open and cheerful-looking—not browned or fading.
    • Pinch or snip.
      Gently pinch the flower head between your fingers and thumb and pop it off the stem, or use small scissors if you prefer.

    You don’t need the whole stem for tea—just the flower heads. Stems and leaves can be a bit more bitter and aren’t necessary for a nice cup of chamomile.

    In a short picking session, you can easily gather enough blossoms to fill a small bowl or two, which will translate into several jars’ worth of tea once they’re dried.

    Make It a Family Foraging Activity

    Chamomile harvesting is a perfect kid job.

    Why it works so well with children:

    • The flowers are low to the ground and easy to reach.
    • The “popping” motion of picking the flower heads is actually fun.
    • There’s a clear, satisfying end product: “We’re picking these to make tea we’ll drink later.”

    Give each child:

    • A small basket, bowl, or container
    • A simple instruction: “We’re picking the little white flowers with yellow centers—no leaves, no grass.”

    It’s a gentle way to:

    • Teach plant identification
    • Talk about where our food and herbs come from
    • Connect everyday “weeds” to real, useful things in your kitchen

    How to Dry Chamomile for Tea

    After you’ve picked a bowl of blossoms, it’s time to dry them so they don’t mold and will keep well through the year.

    Option 1: Using a Dehydrator

    Ready to steep and drink!

    If you have a dehydrator, this is the most controlled method.

    • Spread the blossoms in a single layer on your dehydrator trays.
    • Set the temperature to around 95°F (a low, gentle setting to preserve flavor and color).
    • Dry for about 24 hours, or until the flowers are completely dry and papery to the touch.
    • Test a few by crushing them between your fingers—there should be no softness, just a dry crumble.

    Option 2: Air-Drying or Sun-Drying

    If you don’t have a dehydrator, you can still dry chamomile.

    • Spread the blossoms in a single layer on a clean screen, rack, or baking sheet.
    • Place them in a warm, dry place out of direct rain and heavy dew.
    • Make sure there is good airflow—near a sunny window or in a protected, breezy spot outside works well.
    • Gently stir or turn them once a day so they dry evenly.

    Depending on humidity, it may take several days. Again, you want the blossoms fully dry and crisp before storing.

    How to Store Dried Chamomile

    Once your flowers are fully dry, you can store them for months.

    Simple storage options:

    • Glass jars with lids (mason jars work great)
    • Clean, food-safe containers with tight-fitting lids
    • Or, going old-school: something like a washed and dried Cool Whip container, just like my husband’s grandmother used

    Whichever container you choose, keep it:

    • In a cool, dry place
    • Out of direct sunlight
    • Labeled with the contents and date

    Properly dried and stored, your chamomile should keep its flavor and gentle fragrance for a year or more.

    Brewing Your Own Foraged Chamomile Tea

    Now for the best part: turning those foraged blossoms into a cozy mug of tea.

    I have chamomile tea, the kids are drinking other tea tonight!

    On a cool winter night (or whenever you need a moment to relax), you can:

    • Take a tea ball, reusable tea bag, or small infuser.
    • Add about 1 tablespoon of dried chamomile flowers per cup of water.
    • Pour boiling water over the tea.
    • Let it steep for about 5 minutes (longer if you like a stronger flavor).
    • Remove the infuser, let the tea cool slightly, and enjoy.

    You can drink it:

    • Plain
    • With a drizzle of honey
    • With a splash of milk or cream, if you like it a little softer

    For us, it’s become a go-to when someone needs to unwind or has a slightly unsettled stomach, and there’s something extra special about knowing you picked those flowers yourself.

    A Few Gentle Reminders

    As with any foraged herb:

    • Make sure you’ve correctly identified the plant before consuming.
    • Avoid areas that may have been sprayed or heavily contaminated.
    • If you’re pregnant, nursing, or on medications, it’s always wise to double-check with a trusted healthcare provider before adding new herbal teas regularly.

    From “Weed” to Teacup

    Watching my husband’s grandmother bend down in the driveway and start picking “weeds” for tea completely changed how I look at what grows around us.

    Chamomile went from being a box on a grocery shelf to a living, growing plant that shows up in the unlikeliest places—and now, to something our family can gather, dry, and sip together.

    If you’ve ever wondered whether you could forage your own tea, chamomile is a gentle, beginner-friendly place to start.

    Have you ever foraged something you used to buy at the store?

    If this chamomile guide gave you some ideas (or a little confidence to try foraging), would you share it with a friend or save it for later?

    You can also join my email list for more simple, from-scratch homestead projects—from wild teas to what we’re growing in the garden.

    Read Next: Foraging Stinging Nettles – A Wild, Nutritious Spring Green

  • Buying Meat from a Farmer: A Complete Guide to Bulk Meat, Freezers, and Butchers

    Buying Meat from a Farmer: A Complete Guide to Bulk Meat, Freezers, and Butchers

    Why Buying Meat from a Farmer Is Different

    The process of purchasing meat directly from a farmer is a little different than grabbing a package from the grocery store. It takes more planning, dependable freezer space, and a willingness to think about your food in a new way.

    But in return, you get so much more than just meat.

    If you’ve ever wondered how to buy a quarter beef or half pig from a local farmer, this guide walks you through the whole process.

    Knowing How Your Meat Was Raised

    There’s something powerful about being able to visit the animal that will eventually feed your family.

    When you have a good relationship with a farmer, you can:

    • See where the animals live
    • Watch what they eat
    • Notice how they’re handled and treated

    To be a good farmer is to be empathetic. You’re working with living beings that deserve dignity. They don’t deserve to live in filth, inside all the time, never able to root, scratch, or roam according to their instincts.

    On our homestead, for example, our pigs are raised outside all the time. They can root, eat grass, make mud puddles, and scratch. We don’t dock piglets’ tails because we let them nurse from mom long enough that they don’t get frustrated and chew on each other. In winter, we help them stay warm in a few ways: we feed them extra so they can build up fat reserves, and we add plenty of straw and insulation around their pig hut (which, for us, is an old calf crate). Think of it like the house of straw from the three little pigs—but this one is reinforced with solid supports and a lot more intention.

    Little Pig, Little Pig, Let me in!

    When you buy meat from a farmer whose practices you know and trust, you’re not just buying a product. You’re choosing a story you feel good feeding your family.

    Bulk Meat, Full Freezer, and Creative Cooking

    Buying meat in bulk pushes you to think beyond just bacon, sausage, and ham.

    Pigs, for example, are so much more than the “usual” cuts. Have you ever had:

    • A well-cooked pork steak or pork chops
    • Homemade uncased breakfast or Italian sausage (not at all difficult to make)
    • Marinated side pork (uncured bacon) cooked over a grill or campfire (this one is a total game changer)

    There’s a whole world of flavor and texture in a single animal, and learning to cook those different cuts can actually be fun. I plan to share more recipes and cooking ideas in future posts if you’re interested in exploring beyond the basics.

    There’s also the very practical side: having a full freezer of meat means:

    • Fewer last-minute grocery runs
    • Less impulse spending on convenience food
    • One less thing to juggle when life is busy

    With a little forward planning, you’re essentially building your own little “store” at home that you can shop from all year. When you’re tired, sick, or snowed in, knowing you have meat on hand for soups, roasts, tacos, casseroles, and quick meals is a huge relief.

    Planning to Fill Your Freezer?

    Get the free Grow What You’ll Use planner to think through what your household actually uses, how you want to store or preserve food, and what will make the most of your freezer space.

    Get the Free Planner

    Supporting Local Farmers and Your Community

    When you purchase meat directly from a farmer, you’re helping someone keep their livelihood—not padding a middleman’s profit.

    Your money:

    • Goes directly to the person raising the animals
    • Stays in your local community
    • Helps a neighbor maintain their land, care for animals, and keep going another season

    Ideally, this relationship grows beyond a simple transaction. Over time, you get to know each other. You learn their rhythms and challenges; they learn about your family and your needs. Maybe they text you pictures of new piglets, or you bring your kids out to see the calves.

    You’re not just “a customer”—you’re part of the farm’s story too.

    In other words, you’re trading a little extra planning upfront for better meat, deeper connection, and a more secure pantry.

    How Buying Meat in Bulk from a Farmer Works

    Now that we’ve talked through the benefits, let’s look at how this actually works in practice.

    When you purchase meat directly from a farmer, you typically buy a portion of an animal, not just an individual package. You’ll usually be offered:

    • A quarter
    • A half
    • A whole

    The exact options depend on the type of animal and the farmer.

    Buying a Quarter or Half Beef

    A beef animal (steer) is large, so it’s commonly broken into quarters.

    • One quarter of beef usually equals around 200 pounds of freezer meat (this can vary based on size and breed).
    • A half or whole animal would, of course, be proportionally more.

    This sounds like a lot—and it is—but once you break it down into ground beef, roasts, steaks, stew meat, and soup bones, most families are surprised how quickly they use it over the course of a year. For many four-person families, a quarter beef can comfortably supply most of their beef for many months, if not close to a full year, depending on their eating habits.

    You’ll sometimes hear people call this a “quarter cow,” but “quarter beef” is the more accurate term.

    Buying a Half or Whole Pig

    Pigs are smaller, so they’re often sold as halves or wholes.

    • A half pig usually yields around 100 pounds of freezer meat.
    • A whole pig is roughly 200 pounds, give or take.
    The 2 boxes on the right show what a half pork looks like, labeled and packaged. The rest is my Amish suppies.

    The pork is split between bacon, ham, ground pork or sausage, and various cuts. For our four-person family, a whole hog is enough pork to last us about one year. Your experience may vary based on your family’s eating habits.

    Again, these are ballpark numbers, but they’re helpful for planning. You can always split a half or a whole with another family if that feels more manageable.

    Freezer Space for Bulk Meat Orders

    Buying a quarter of beef or a half pig means one very practical thing: you need somewhere to store it.

    A few things to consider:

    Freezer Type

    We use both a chest freezer and an upright freezer between our beef, pork, frozen garden vegetables, and other grocery store finds (yes, I do still grocery shop, but more like monthly). Either style works; it often comes down to space and personal preference.

    • Chest freezers tend to be more energy-efficient and stay cold longer if the power goes out.
    • Upright freezers are easier to organize and access because everything isn’t stacked on top of everything else.
    Our chest freezer full of frozen beef (this is what a quarter beef looks like).

    Finding a Freezer

    You can often find secondhand freezers at a bargain on places like Facebook Marketplace or local buy/sell groups if you’re willing to watch for deals and clean them. Just make sure you can test that it gets and stays cold before you bring it home.

    Electric Considerations

    Ideally, your freezer should be on a dedicated electrical circuit to reduce the risk of tripping a breaker and silently losing everything. If you’re unsure, it’s worth asking someone handy or an electrician to check.

    Power Outages

    If there is a power outage, resist the urge to open the freezer “just to check.” A closed, full freezer will stay cold much longer than you’d think. If your area loses power frequently, having a small generator on hand for your freezer might be worth considering.

    Think of your freezer as a savings account: that meat is your hard-earned money in frozen form. You want to protect it.

    Planning Ahead with Your Farmer

    Farmers can’t just create finished animals overnight. It takes time to raise them to a good butcher weight, and many farms book processing dates months in advance.

    As a rough guide:

    • A beef animal takes about 2 years to raise.
    • A pig takes about 6 months.

    Most farmers plan their processing schedule well ahead of time. If you’re thinking of buying meat in bulk:

    • Reach out to a farmer several months (or even a season) in advance.
    • Ask when they typically send animals to the processor.
    • Get on their list early, especially if they’re a smaller operation.

    You can also ask about breed and feeding practices (grass-fed, grain-finished, pasture-raised), so you know exactly what you’re getting.

    Building a Relationship While You Wait

    During that time, you can do more than just wait for a phone call.

    • Visit the farm if that’s an option.
    • Ask questions about how they feed and house animals.
    • Let your kids (if you have them) see where their food comes from and ask their own questions.

    Every farmer I know—and I know quite a few, thanks to my agricultural background—loves to talk about their animals. They’ll tell you about personalities, quirks, and challenges. For most of them, farming is a vocation, not just a job. They’re in it because they care.

    Understanding the Two Bills: Animal and Processing

    When the processing date gets closer, your farmer will reach out with more details, such as:

    • Which butcher/processing facility they’re using
    • The approximate hanging weight of the animal, and the price per pound for their part
    • The approximate date you can expect to pick up your meat

    This is also when you’ll want to understand how payment works. When you purchase directly from a farmer, you’re usually paying two separate bills:

    • The animal itself – paid directly to the farmer
    • The processing/butchering – paid directly to the butcher or processing facility

    The farmer can tell you their rate structure (per pound, flat rate, etc.), and the processor will have their own fee schedule based on your preferences—cutting, wrapping, curing, sausage-making, smoking, and so on.

    Working with the Butcher on Cut Choices

    Once the farmer takes the animal to the butcher shop, their part in the story is essentially done. Next, the butcher shop (to whom the farmer has passed along your contact information) will reach out with questions about how you want your meat processed.

    A good butcher will walk even the least experienced person through the process. Some examples of decisions include:

    • More roasts or more ground?
    • How thick do you want steaks or chops cut?
    • What kinds of sausage would you like, and in what size packages?
    • Do you want soup bones, organ meats, or extras like lard or fat?

    The possibilities are truly endless, and you can customize it in the way that works best for your cooking. One year, you might prefer 1‑pound packages of ground beef or pork; the next year, you might decide you’d rather have 1.5‑pound packages to better fit your favorite recipes. You can adjust as you learn what your family actually uses.

    Picking Up Your Bulk Meat Order

    The last part is picking up your meat from the butcher.

    • The processor will contact you when everything is cut, wrapped, and frozen, and they’ll share the total cost due to them.
    • It’s important to ask whether you need to bring coolers or boxes to store the meat on the way home. Some butchers provide boxes; others do not.

    There’s nothing worse than showing up unprepared and having 200 pounds of meat rolling around loose in your vehicle. Don’t ask me how I know.

    A few final tips:

    • Bring sturdy boxes or coolers so you can stack and carry the meat easily.
    • Bring a pair of gloves—the meat is cold and pre-frozen, and you don’t want frozen fingers by the time you’re done loading and unloading.
    • Make sure you have your freezer space ready and cleared before pickup day, so you’re not rearranging everything with a car full of thawing meat.

    It can feel more complicated than grabbing a package at the store, but once you’ve done it, it starts to make sense. And the reward is a freezer full of meat you feel good about, with a story you actually know—and a farmer you can call by name.

    Common Questions About Buying Meat from a Farmer

    Is it cheaper than grocery store meat?

    It depends on what you’re comparing it to.

    • If you usually buy the cheapest grocery store meat and the bargain cuts, buying from a farmer may cost a bit more per pound.
    • If you usually buy higher-quality or “natural” meat, buying in bulk from a farmer is often the same price or cheaper—and you’re getting better quality and supporting a local family.

    One important consideration is that you pay one price per pound of processed meat. This includes the more expensive cuts like pork belly or tenderloin, and the “lesser” cuts like spare ribs and pork hocks. The more expensive cuts come down in price compared to the grocery store, and the “lesser” cuts are typically at or slightly higher than grocery store prices.

    The biggest difference is that you’re paying for a large amount at once instead of spreading it out over many small trips—and all the tempting last-minute impulse purchases grocery stores are so good at encouraging.

    Do I have to take cuts I don’t know how to cook?

    No—and also, not forever.

    • You can customize your order a lot. For example, if you don’t like roasts, you can ask for more ground.
    • You can skip certain things (like organ meats) if you know you won’t use them.
    • Over time, you might decide to try one or two “new” cuts each year as your confidence grows.

    You’re not locked into one way of cutting forever; you can adjust each time you order.

    What if I don’t have enough freezer space for a whole or half animal?

    You have options:

    • Split a quarter or half with a friend or family member.
    • Ask your farmer if they know anyone looking to “share” an animal—many do.
    • Start smaller (for example, a quarter beef instead of a half, or half a pig instead of a whole).

    You don’t have to jump straight into a full animal on your first try.You have options:

    • Split a quarter or half with a friend or family member.
    • Ask your farmer if they know anyone looking to “share” an animal—many do.
    • Start smaller (for example, a quarter beef instead of a half, or half a pig instead of a whole).

    You don’t have to jump straight into a full animal on your first try.

    How long will the meat last in the freezer?

    If it’s wrapped well and kept consistently frozen:

    • Most cuts are best within 12–18 months, though many will last longer and still be safe to eat.
    • Ground meat is typically best within 6–12 months for peak quality.

    Labeling packages with the date and type of cut makes it much easier to rotate and use things in a good timeframe. A good butcher will do that for you.

    What if I’m nervous about making the wrong choices?

    You’re not alone—almost everyone feels that way the first time.

    A few reassurances:

    • Farmers and butchers are used to first-timers. They expect questions.
    • A good butcher will walk you through the options and explain what’s common for families like yours.
    • You can keep things simple your first time (basic steaks/chops, roasts, and ground), then get more adventurous with sausage, specialty cuts, and smoking on your next order.

    Think of your first bulk order as a learning experience. You’ll quickly figure out what your family uses most.

    If You’re Local and Want to Buy from Us

    If you’re local (Southeastern Wisconsin) and interested in buying pork from our homestead, we’d love to connect.

    Because raising and processing animals is a big investment, we use a simple reservation and deposit system so everyone knows what to expect:

    • You reserve a portion (half or whole) with a small non-refundable deposit.
    • We raise and deliver the animal to the butcher on the scheduled date.
    • Once we know the hanging weight and processing cost, we send you a clear invoice.
    • After payment, you pick up your meat at the butcher.

    If that sounds like something you’d like to explore—or if you just have questions—feel free to reach out. We’re happy to talk through the process and see whether it’s a good fit for your family.

    Have you ever bought a quarter beef, half pig, or other bulk meat from a farmer—or is it something you’ve been curious (or nervous) to try?

    If this helped answer some questions—or made buying meat from a farmer feel a little less intimidating—please like and share it with a friend who’s been talking about “finding a local farmer.” It makes a bigger difference than you think.

    Subscribe for weekly homesteading tips:

    Read Next: Why I’d Change Food Safety Laws: The Homestead Pork Processing Cost Crisis

  • Foraging Stinging Nettles—A Wild, Nutritious Spring Green

    Foraging Stinging Nettles—A Wild, Nutritious Spring Green

    Here’s what foraging stinging nettles looked like for me this spring, and how I turned them into a safe, nourishing meal for my family.

    As I walk outside armed with a plant identification book, rubber gloves, and an open mind, I can’t help but feel that I’m about to violate a fundamental law of food. Among the waterlogged ground, I scan for juvenile stinging nettles—those tough, serrated leaves covered in tiny, hair‑like stingers. This spring, I’ve begun foraging stinging nettles on our property, turning a backyard “weed” into a free, nutrient‑dense green for our family. It’s especially welcome in the early months of the year, when fresh vegetables are harder to come by.

    Nettles nestled among grass

    Foraging Nettles Safely

    From experience, I know that if I’m not careful, I’ll quickly become aware that the plant has grazed my skin: the stingers bring an immediate, sharp pain and soon after a scattering of blisters. As someone who is slowly learning to step away from the industrialized food system, I feel hesitant to collect food that can actually hurt me. Yet there’s also a quiet humility in working with a plant that demands respect—this is nothing like reaching for a plastic‑wrapped bunch of lettuce at the grocery store.

    I chuckled at the thought of how hungry the first person must have been to discover how to disable the stingers and savor this tasty, nutritious wild larder hiding in plain sight. On the other hand, there’s a childlike wonder in identifying a “weed” that others avoid. That sense of discovery encourages me to continue my quest.

    Harvesting becomes a mindful ritual. I crouch down and gently collect the plants, pinching off the leaves just above the stem. Where nettles grow most aggressively, I pull them from the ground—our property is overgrown with nettles that spread via rhizomes. The plants rustle as I work, releasing a faint, green herbal aroma into the air.

    A bowl full of nettle leaves

    In a moment of carelessness, my arm grazes the plant, and I receive several painful blisters in turn. The soreness is uncomfortable, yes, but it also feels like a badge of honor. The temporary sting is a small price for the nutritional bounty. As my basket fills, I marvel at the efficiency of nature, at its pure, unmediated abundance.

    To keep myself and my family safe, here are the practical steps I use to handle stinging nettles while working with them:

    • Wear long sleeves and long pants to keep as much skin as possible covered.
    • Use thick rubber or leather gloves that fully cover the wrists.
    • Pull the gloves over the cuffs of long sleeves so stingers can’t slip in between.
    • Avoid touching your face or neck while harvesting.
    • If a sting happens, rinse the area with cool water and mild soap, then apply a soothing cream or cool compress as needed.
    • If you’re foraging with kids, let them wear gloves and long sleeves too, and keep them close by so you can guide their hands and steps.

    These simple precautions make the experience feel less intimidating and more like a teachable moment, not a painful surprise.

    Cooking Nettles Safely: How to Neutralize the Sting

    By the time I’m back in the kitchen, the nettles are in a vibrant heap in the sink. Before I wash them, I remind myself: Stinging nettles must never be eaten raw. The stingers release a mildly irritating compound that can cause discomfort and a burning sensation in the mouth and throat.

    To make them safe to eat, I always use one of these two methods:

    • Blanch in boiling water:
      • Bring a pot of water to a boil.
      • Drop the nettle leaves into the boiling water for 1–2 minutes.
      • Drain and rinse with cool water.
      • The leaves will feel soft and silky and will no longer sting.
    • Sauté in a hot pan:
      • Add the fresh nettles to a hot pan with a bit of butter or oil.
      • Stir constantly for 2–3 minutes until the leaves wilt and darken.
      • The heat neutralizes the stingers and turns the leaves into a tender, spinach‑like green.

    Both methods are quick and simple. The important point is: any stinging nettle serving larger than a small nibble should be processed with heat. That’s the non‑negotiable rule if you don’t want a painful, unpleasant experience.

    Once the sting is gone, the nettles are ready to shine. I usually sauté them in garlic and butter, then season with salt. The simplicity of the dish is empowering; the only extras are salt, garlic, and butter to let the flavor of the greens shine. They taste grassy and slightly nutty, with a depth that store‑bought greens rarely match.

    A recent dinner, the vegetable was asparagus and nettles boiled in salted water, seasoned with butter and pepper. Delicious!

    Every bite carries the satisfaction of knowing that at least some of the food on our table comes directly from the land, unmediated by plastic packaging or price tags and paid for instead with time and attention. This is the kind of meal I want to share with my children, teaching them that “weeds” can become dinner and that food is something the earth offers, not just something we buy.

    Nutritional Benefits of Nettles

    Stinging nettles are often called a “wild supergreen” for good reason. A small serving of cooked nettles delivers a surprising amount of important nutrients, including:

    • Iron (useful for supporting energy and blood health)
    • Calcium (beneficial for bones and teeth)
    • Vitamins A and C (supporting immune function and skin health)
    • Magnesium and other trace minerals
    • A moderate amount of plant‑based protein for a leafy green
    • Nettles have also been traditionally used for their gentle antihistamine‑like properties, especially when prepared as an herbal infusion.

    In a world where we often think of “healthy food” as something expensive or packaged, nettles remind me that deep nourishment can emerge from the edges of the yard, if we’re willing to learn how to use it.

    Reflections on Foraging and Community

    Later, I ponder the experience, which was more rewarding than I imagined. Supplementing my diet with nettles shrinks my food miles while my pantry is enriched by the seasons. Grocery store runs feel less urgent when the yard offers a free, nutrient‑dense green harvested in spring. There’s a quiet pride in crafting meals from plants many call weeds, a small act of rebellion against the idea that all good food must be bought.

    On a deeper level, I’m participating in a cycle that predates grocery stores, rekindling a bond with the earth that modern life often severs. I’m learning to see my yard—and my children’s yard—as a living pantry, not just a backdrop to our days. And when I share a pot of nettle soup or a plate of sautéed greens with a neighbor, the act of foraging becomes part of a small, quiet web of community, where knowledge and food move between people instead of only through registers.

    Defiance, Devotion, and the Gift of the Land In a world built on convenience, foraging for nettles becomes an act of both defiance and devotion. It roots me in the present, reminds me that the earth provides—often lavishly, and often in plain sight—for those willing to look, learn, and gratefully receive.

    Have you ever foraged stinging nettles or another wild green? Or would you ever try nettles in your family’s meals? Let me know in the comments—I’d love to hear your stories and tips!

    If this post inspires you to look at your yard a little differently, I’d love it if you shared it with another parent or forager who’s curious about wild food. You can like or share it on Facebook, pin it on Pinterest, or forward it to a friend who loves seasonal, hands on food adventures.

    Subscribe for weekly homesteading tips:

    Read Next: Foraging Ramps with Kids in the Midwest